A THOUGHT OR TWO ABOUT RESTAURANTS
More cultural differences around food (I'll add non-food thoughts at the end): ordering at many cafés does not work the same way it does in the US. I am very used to sitting down (or standing in a more deli-style joint), looking at the menu, and deciding which of the listed options sounds best. I had never really stopped to consider that this is a "cultural style" because, well, I had no idea how else one would do such a thing. However, in Geneva, it seems to often be the case that you are expected to already know what you want when you walk in the door (this does not seem to be true for the more formal restaurants, but for the wide array of places which identify as "cafés"). I have been completely flummoxed as to what sort of coffee beverage to order, for instance, since there is never an easily visible menu of any kind in these cafés (although usually if you look closely, you will find a tiny list of prices somewhere in a dark corner). You are expected to just ask the person behind the counter for the drink you desire. My problem: I don't just want coffee (not a fan of brewed coffee).
If I happen to be in the mood for a coffee-based beverage, I am looking for something with milk, something that cuts the bitterness of the coffee and makes real coffee drinkers choke ("is there any coffee in that milk?" people have asked). Happily, Emily, experienced traveler that she is, knew that such a thing as a "renversé" existed, and sometimes it is to my taste (sometimes not). I was so confused about how anyone knew what they wanted without being able to look at what was available, until Emily finally clued me in: every café has EXACTLY the same coffee drinks available. You can get a café, an espresso, or a renversé. What else is there? This isn't California, for heaven's sake.
Interestingly, people do it with food and wine as well. We asked for a drink menu at a nice brasserie last night, and were told there wasn't such a thing. Just tell the server what you want! Apparently one isn't allowed to be inspired by what might be around. I think somewhere here there is a comparison to looking for a specific book on the web, and browsing at a library/bookstore, but I'll leave that debate for somewhere/someone else. I'm trying to learn the system here, but it definitely doesn't come easily.
On another topic close to my "faculty wife" heart: how do washers and dryers, which work on the same exact principles here as in the US, have such different commands (leaving aside the challenge of trying to figure out what the dryer is telling you when it is only in French and your French comprehension is as bad as mine)? The washer here seems to have a variety of temperature settings, from 10 degrees C to 95 degrees C, with suggestions of what the temperatures should be for. I was initially confused, as I read "40/60/95" as minutes of washing, not as temperatures, but finally got it sorted out. Then the dryer has only three settings, and none of them tell you a temperature, just a time: 23, 32, or 40 minutes are your choices, and sort of correspond with temperature. I think. Maybe.
Then there is the question of paying for them: the signs on the pay boxes are clear that they only accept CHF (Swiss franc; nope, no euros here!) 1 and 0.20 coins (coins here are in denominations of 0.05, 0.10, 0.20, 0.50, 1, 2, and 5), and that a "programme" of 1 hour costs CHF 4. However, none of the various settings last an hour, and it's not clear quite how it prorates the time (it doesn't seem to be as simple as 15 minutes = CHF 1), so I have ended up either having money left on the machine because I put too much in, or having the washer just stop mid-cycle because there was too little money in it. I had no idea how much I missed the (in comparison) clear labeling on US washers and dryers, but so goes the life of an International Man of Leisure.
If I happen to be in the mood for a coffee-based beverage, I am looking for something with milk, something that cuts the bitterness of the coffee and makes real coffee drinkers choke ("is there any coffee in that milk?" people have asked). Happily, Emily, experienced traveler that she is, knew that such a thing as a "renversé" existed, and sometimes it is to my taste (sometimes not). I was so confused about how anyone knew what they wanted without being able to look at what was available, until Emily finally clued me in: every café has EXACTLY the same coffee drinks available. You can get a café, an espresso, or a renversé. What else is there? This isn't California, for heaven's sake.
Interestingly, people do it with food and wine as well. We asked for a drink menu at a nice brasserie last night, and were told there wasn't such a thing. Just tell the server what you want! Apparently one isn't allowed to be inspired by what might be around. I think somewhere here there is a comparison to looking for a specific book on the web, and browsing at a library/bookstore, but I'll leave that debate for somewhere/someone else. I'm trying to learn the system here, but it definitely doesn't come easily.
On another topic close to my "faculty wife" heart: how do washers and dryers, which work on the same exact principles here as in the US, have such different commands (leaving aside the challenge of trying to figure out what the dryer is telling you when it is only in French and your French comprehension is as bad as mine)? The washer here seems to have a variety of temperature settings, from 10 degrees C to 95 degrees C, with suggestions of what the temperatures should be for. I was initially confused, as I read "40/60/95" as minutes of washing, not as temperatures, but finally got it sorted out. Then the dryer has only three settings, and none of them tell you a temperature, just a time: 23, 32, or 40 minutes are your choices, and sort of correspond with temperature. I think. Maybe.
Then there is the question of paying for them: the signs on the pay boxes are clear that they only accept CHF (Swiss franc; nope, no euros here!) 1 and 0.20 coins (coins here are in denominations of 0.05, 0.10, 0.20, 0.50, 1, 2, and 5), and that a "programme" of 1 hour costs CHF 4. However, none of the various settings last an hour, and it's not clear quite how it prorates the time (it doesn't seem to be as simple as 15 minutes = CHF 1), so I have ended up either having money left on the machine because I put too much in, or having the washer just stop mid-cycle because there was too little money in it. I had no idea how much I missed the (in comparison) clear labeling on US washers and dryers, but so goes the life of an International Man of Leisure.

2 Comments:
Would seem you'd want to underestimate, then add a coin or two, if it stops (assuming it resumes where it left off)?
Interesting about the menus. Does EVERY restaurant have horse filets? Does no one have a special preparation for which they're locally renowned? And how would you "just know?"
Ah, well, we're still in the land of menus, which have been quite handy this week in the Denver area. Had a couple days up at Rocky, then came back earlier than we otherwise would have, as Judy Collins was talking/performing at the Denver Press Club, so we went. Wonderful! Now for a couple days of work teaching, then back home on Saturday.
-Dad
Well, it's only the fancier restaurants that tend to have the entrecote de cheval, and they do have menus. The cafes will sometimes have the plat du jour listed outside on a chalkboard, but there seems to be a certain amount of items that are just standard, but that you have to know are the standard. I guess if you grow up going there, you would know.
Glad to hear you are having a good time at Rocky.
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