July 28, 2006

lunch break

After a couple of political-ish posts, thought people could use a break, so I'm returning to the ever-popular topic of food. Syria has an embarassment of riches, dining-wise. And, happily, my digestive system has so far been cooperating and allowing me to enjoy all of them.

My usual lunch involves something on or wrapped in pita bread. The variety of toppings/fillings, is endless: shwarma (chicken gyros), falafel, fried eggplant, shish kabob (chicken or kefta--spiced ground lamb), cheese, french fries (!) ...

In order to get my preferred lunch, I have to track down the right type of shop. Syrians have taken the principle of specialization to its extreme, so each shop makes only one type of sandwiches. You will NEVER get falafel and shwarma at the same place. Or even shwarma and shish kabob.

Instead, you go to a shwarma stall (my local, run by a Kurdish family):


Or a falafel shop, which can usually be identified by the stacks of tomatoes and parsley in the window. No photo, as my local was mysteriously and distressingly closed the week I drafed this post.

Or a butcher for grilled shish kabob. This one really takes some snooping. First, look for a large slab of meat hanging in the window. Then, check for a small charcoal grill. Order up your chicken, kefta, or brain burger. Yes, the last do exist. NO, I do not plan on trying them. Under no circumstances do you try to get shish kabob at the poultry stall; that's an entirely different specialization, with no grills.

Sandwich stalls are a little more catholic. Sometimes they double as falafel joints (shared vegetarianism?) Other times, they are completely unmarked holes in the wall. The "Snack Shop" a few steps from my house is a study in modernization/Westernization: uniformed staff, a more varied menu, and appalling amounts of packaging. You even get moist towelettes...

And don't forget, of course, the saaj joints (a different, more crepe like kind of bread with toppings) or the fitayer (like mini-pizzas, see below) stalls.



All of the places pictured above are within a stone's throw of my balcony. Literally, if you've got a good arm. And that's just lunch...

2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

OK, now we are hungry! Miss you, Grammie and Toni

8:48 PM  
Blogger Owen said...

I can't help but imagine the guy in the fisrt picture busting out a martial art pose in front of the mirror every morning after he puts on his headband.

8:57 PM  

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